Day 7: The Adventures of Jen and RaeRay

One of the most lush spots on Maui is the Iao Valley that leads out of Wailuku up into the lower rim of the West Maui mountains. The road meets a dead end into a state park that commemorates a fierce battle between Hawaiian kings of the 1760s and the massacre that left bodies damming up the river and the waters flowing red. Banana trees, papaya trees and numerous flowers and ferns decorate the hillside as water leaps down from the peaks. The Iao Needle is a tall land form standing more than 2,000 feet above sea level and was used as a lookout by the island natives. Rae took Jen and Ray on a tour of Iao on their way to Paia for breakfast and a bit of turtle-watching.

Charley’s Restaurant & Saloon is a legendary spot in the Maui town of Paia. It is a favorite of one of the island’s most notable citizens, Willie Nelson, who has from time to time stopped by with his son Lukas to jam with the nightly entertainers. Rae was determined to take Jen and Ray there for brunch, especially after Jen became so fond of the shops in Paia. The walls are decorated with photos of musical stars who’ve played at Charley’s, historic photos of the island and whimsical paintings of famous faces mingling with local characters. One piece of art shows a poker game with a number of celebrities gathered around Willie. The food is plentiful and includes some heavy local dishes. Ray tried the Loco Coco, a burger over rice smothered with a rich brown gravy, two over light eggs and fried onions. Jen ordered a banana pancake, which hung over the edges of the plate, and Rae enjoyed Huevos Rancheros — two eggs served over refried beans, a corn tortilla and topped with cheese, salsa, a green chili sauce and sour cream. 

Across the street from Charley’s, Jen and RaeRay did a bit more shopping at Jammin’ on Maui, which is a sister shop to Jammin’ on Haight in San Francisco. RaeRay had discovered it last spring during RaeRay’s New Adventure. The next stop on Jen and RaeRay’s journey was at Baldwin Beach nearby, where they were hoping to watch sea turtles play in the surf. Unfortunately, they saw only one or two swimming off shore. The creatures seem to ignore parents with kids out in the water. They swam right past the humans. Back in the car, Jen and RaeRay headed back to Wailuku for a lazy afternoon. Jen and Ray took their host, Sue, to the airport to join a group of students heading to Seattle, Washington, for a rhythmic gymnastics competition. This would be a night of resting. On Thursday Jen and RaeRay would take the road to Hana.